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MasterMath

PSU Wattage Calculator

What power supply a PC needs, adding up its components’ draw with the headroom worth leaving.

Recommended PSU

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Recommended PSU—
Peak draw of the system—
With headroom applied—
Load it would run at—
Drawn from the wall—

How this was worked out

    The formula

    recommended = sum of draws × (1 + headroom)

    Where it comes from

    Adding each part’s draw gives the peak, but a power supply should not run at its limit. Its efficiency curve peaks around 50 % load, and that is also where it is quietest and lasts longest, because the capacitors take less punishment. Hence the 25 to 30 % headroom, which is not a sales trick. The graphics card is almost always the heaviest component, and its instantaneous draw can go well above nominal during millisecond spikes: that is what shuts down a system with a tight PSU even when the arithmetic checks out.

    How to work it out by hand

    1. Add the load draw of every component
    2. Add the headroom over that peak
    3. Step up to the next standard wattage
    4. Check what percentage of load it would run at

    What is worth knowing

    80 Plus certification measures efficiency, not quality: a good Bronze beats a bad Gold. What is worth looking at is the current delivered on the 12 volt rail, which is what the processor and graphics card draw from, and whether the manufacturer publishes the actual platform — many brands rebadge other people’s designs. Efficiency matters less than people think on a home machine: the difference between Bronze and Gold on a desktop is a few euros a year. What does matter a great deal is over-current and over-voltage protection, because a cheap unit that fails can take the rest of the system with it.

    Frequently asked questions

    What PSU do I need for my PC?

    The sum of the components’ draw plus 25 to 30 % headroom. A system peaking at 540 W wants a 750 W unit.

    Why leave headroom?

    Because a PSU is most efficient around 50 % load, and that is where it runs quietest and lasts longest. Running at the limit wears it out.

    Which component draws the most?

    The graphics card, nearly always. In a gaming machine it can be more than half the total draw.

    Does 80 Plus certification matter?

    It measures efficiency, not quality: a good Bronze beats a bad Gold. Look instead at the 12 V rail current and the protections.

    Does efficiency show on the bill?

    Barely on a home machine: a few euros a year between Bronze and Gold. What matters are the protections.

    Why does my PC shut down if the PSU is big enough?

    Because of instantaneous graphics card spikes, which can go well above nominal draw for milliseconds and trip the protection.